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• Up • Buy Now or Wait • Don't Bite Off Too Much House • Buying A New Home? • What Makes A Good Neighborhood • Things Not to Do Before Purchasing a Home •
So ... how much home can your
afford?
The
classic formulas for mortgage affordability could lead you to disaster. Here’s
how to get a better handle on what you really can afford.
Thirty years ago, first-time home buyers were often encouraged to stretch as far
as they possibly could to buy a house. Back then, that advice made some sense.
Today,
it can be a recipe for disaster.
A
too-big house payment can, at the very least, leave you with too little money
for other goals: retirement, vacations, college funds for the kids. At worst, it
can leave you vulnerable to foreclosure and bankruptcy.
What’s
more, you can’t count on your real estate agent, a mortgage loan officer, your
friends and family or an Internet calculator to know what you can really afford.
That’s a decision you have to make yourself after reviewing your finances, your
future obligations, your goals and your gut.
Yet
many first-time buyers are still being pushed into mortgages that are bigger
than they can handle, based on old-fashioned advice.
Here’s
what’s changed in the 30 years (or more) since your parents bought their first
house:
-
Inflation.
Rapidly rising prices in the 1970s and early 1980s meant you could count on
hefty annual raises. Today, you can’t rely on double-digit income boosts to make
your mortgage payment less of a burden each year.
-
Two-income couples.
A generation ago, single-income families were more common. If the breadwinner
lost a job, the other spouse could go to work to save the house. With more
two-income families needing both paychecks to make the mortgage payment, there’s
no one on the sidelines to take up the slack -- unless you put the kids to work.
-
The lending industry.
Thirty years ago, it was pretty tough to get a mortgage for more than you could
really afford. Today, it’s fairly commonplace. More lenders have loosened their
criteria, knowing that the vast majority of their borrowers will do whatever it
takes to pay their mortgage -- even if it means trashing the rest of their
financial lives.
-
Retirement.
A much bigger proportion of the workforce was covered by traditional,
defined-benefit pensions 30 years ago -- which means they didn’t have to save
massive amounts of money on their own to have a decent retirement. Today, the
onus is typically on you to carve enough out of your budget to fund 401(k)s and
IRAs.
Let’s get real
So how much should you spend on a house? The traditional way to calculate that
is to add up all your income and make sure that your housing expenses --
mortgage payment, homeowners insurance and property taxes -- don’t exceed a
certain amount of that total. The traditional limit, still used by many lenders,
is 28% of gross monthly income. Some financial advisers recommend capping your
outlay at 25%; others suggest stretching to 33% or more.
These
limits, by the way, apply only if you don’t have a lot of other debt. Most
lenders don’t want more than 36% of your total income to go toward mortgage and
other debt payments. If your total debt would push you over that figure, most
lenders will reduce the size of the mortgage for which you qualify.
Here’s
how the varying limits translate. The figures assume you earn $45,000 a year and
that you would pay $480 in homeowners insurance and $2,000 in property taxes
annually. (In reality, those figures would fluctuate with the value of the home
you buy.) This also assumes a 30-year loan at 5.5% interest and a big enough
down payment that you’ll avoid private mortgage insurance, or PMI.
How
large a mortgage can $45,000 a year get you
|
If share of
income devoted to housing is: |
25% |
$938 |
$207 |
$731 |
|
|
$128,745 |
28% |
$1,050 |
$207 |
|
The monthly
cash requirement is: |
$843 |
$148,470 |
31% |
$1,163 |
|
Less: taxes
and insurance … |
$207 |
$956 |
$168,372 |
33% |
|
… leaves cash
needed to pay the mortgage …
… and
translates into this loan amount |
$1,238 |
$207 |
$1,031 |
$181,582 |
*If gross
income is $45,000 a year. **$480 a year for insurance, $2,000 for taxes. ***
Assumes a 30-year, fixed-rate loan at 5.5% interest.
As you
can see, the percentage of income used has a huge effect on how much house you
can buy.
Fixing a glitch in
the calculators
Most
Internet mortgage calculators use the 28%-of-total-income figure. If you want to
see how much mortgage you could afford under other scenarios, adjust your income
by using the following multipliers:
Income
converter to make online calculators work better
If you want the share of your income*
devoted to housing to be:
Multiply your income by
|
25% |
0.9 |
|
28% |
1 |
|
31% |
1.11 |
|
33% |
1.18 |
* Gross income
Then,
use the calculators.
Your own math is
more important
The
best way to figure out how much house you can afford is to do your own math.
-
Figure out how much money
you need to contribute to various goals, such as your retirement and your kids’
college educations.
-
Estimate how much your house
is going to cost you in maintenance and repairs each year (figure about 1% to 3%
of the home’s total value annually, depending on its age and condition -- see “The
hidden costs of homeownership” for more details). Then see how much
of your remaining income is eaten up by your housing costs (including insurance
and taxes), and see how you feel about that.
All that math
making your head hurt? Here’s the short version: You’ll probably be most
comfortable using the 25% lid. You may want to go even lower if:
-
You plan to have children.
Kids can be expensive, and many couples discover they want to have the option of
one partner staying home, or working part-time, once kids arrive. That’s tough
to do if you need every penny of both incomes to make ends meet. If you really
want to be conservative, do your calculations based on the income you think
you’ll have post-baby.
-
You have an expensive hobby,
like travel. Most
homeowners are willing to put their wanderlust on the backburner to buy more
house. If that’s not you, buy less house.
-
Your income varies
considerably.
Most American workers have variable incomes, thanks to the prevalence of
overtime pay and bonuses. If yours swings wildly from year to year, though,
consider basing your calculations on your average earnings over several years or
(even more conservative) on the minimum you expect to make.
You may
think you can’t possibly limit your housing expenses by that much, especially if
homes cost a lot where you live.
However, you can stretch further if:
-
You’re absolutely debt-free.
No credit card debt, student loans or car payments -- and none anticipated in
the near future? You probably can handle a bigger nut.
-
You don’t have to worry
about retirement.
Many teachers and civil servants have terrific pensions -- so good that to be
sure they’ll be fine; they just have to throw a few bucks each year into an IRA
or deferred-compensation plan.
-
You’re pretty sure your
income will climb steeply in coming years.
Fresh out of law school and doing a few years in the public defenders’ office?
If private practice is your goal and you don’t want to wait to buy a home with
the bigger income that’s coming, stretching now can work out okay.
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